Georges River and other Adventures

So here we are, the first part of our expedition is over. The Ford river has been taimed and we are moving on with the second objective of our trip, sharing our love of the river with the local Inuits.

DAY 7

We woke up this morning to a grey sky and hazy weather. The fog wasn’t moving up and the air was cold. We ate another breakfast; well the same has usual and waited. The plan was to take our Inuit friends out for some whitewater teaching, but let’s just say that they weren’t has exited has us… We finally rallied them up and went out on the water, thanks to Level Six their were kept warm despite the cold breeze. Time was spent playing around eddy lines and surfing a little hole at the bottom of the Helen Falls. After numerous flips, we got out of the water. The cold and rainy weather not helping the afternoon was slow and lazy. The boys sat up some nets and caught some trouts and salmons. The evening was spent talking and cooking the fishes in the traditional Inuit tent they brought.

DAY 8

Again the morning was grey and cold, but this time things got moving faster. We packed the camp up and filled the motor boats for the ride home, to Kangiqsualujjuaq (Georges River). The 2 hours ride to the town was cold and we were all glad to finally make it to the local dock. There some of our contacts from town were waiting for us and we headed to the Kuruurjuaq Park office and tourism center for some well deserved heat and coffee! There we had a talk with France Brind’Amour our “Mom” away from home and were granted with a house! Thanks to the guys at the park and especially to Charlie Munick we were able to dry up and take a well deserved shower. I spent the rest of the day emptying the numerous SD cards we had filled with footage and pictures from the Ford.

DAY 9

This morning was spent driving around town to get our bearings and try to find a way to teach kayak to the local kids. Finally, after some meeting and discussions we were allowed to use the swimming pool for our little paddling clinic. We then did a little grocery shopping at the local COOP (where you buy everything from ATV to guns and food) and we were amazed at how expensive life can get around here... For example, 2 litres of Oasis orange juice goes for 11.59$. During the afternoon we had a meeting planned with the people at the park and our local contacts for a little picture show were we showed our pictures and talked about our expedition.

The night was one of the best moments for me. We took our 3 boats to the local swimming pool where we had invited everybody from town for a little kayaking clinic. So people gathered in and around the cold pool and we took turns showing people how to roll the boats and paddle. Everybody had a smile in their faces and seemed happy to see the white guys teaching them how to use their own invention that is the kayak. Modern life style still clashes a lot with the traditional way of life of the population from North. I think that one of the biggest changes for them is the fact that they now have more free time. Modern tools enabling them to accomplish the same tasks but faster, they are now granted with some free time. This newly acquired free time isn’t always used for goods things (strong alcohol and drug consumption) but helping them to discoverer new ways to spend time can only help them stay away from trouble.

DAY 10

We woke up with our now customary “epic” omelette, with expired eggs form the local dump, bacon and hamburger patties all cooked in bacon fat, we ran out of olive oil... We then dashed to the park office, our new headquarters and planned some more paddling using Google Earth and local knowledge. After roughly 1 hour we had a plan! Go out with Jimmy to a near town creek today and paddle the Barnouin River tomorrow.

We packed Jimmy’s boat with boat, filled it with gas and we were out. A short 30min boat ride brought us to the river at Illutalviniq. We then bushwalked for a good hour to the top of the river. We ran the river and found a fun slide/waterfall which we lapped a couple of times before continuing towards to bottom in a pretty steep boulder garden. The water was low, but the boulders created nice features that were fun to run. On our way back to town, we stopped for some fishing and mushroom picking. In the evening, we paid a visit to Jean-Guy, a now local white guy and listen to the stories and opinions he had to share.

DAY 11

After another "epic" omelette, we headed up to the park office. There we were in for a bad surprise... We learned that, up here, even the best made plans are prone to fall apart depending on the mood of people. We never found out why, but nobody was willing to go to the Barnouin River even if it was their own plan... So we scramble all morning to find a replacement boat driver, but were not able to. Let’s just say that moral was pretty low around our “epic” salad with beacon fat dressing.

Fortunately enough, the guys liked kayaking in the pool so much that the community bought our boats! We had one less thing top carry back South with us. Guillaume also decided that it was time for him to change his paddling gear and sold almost all of his stuff during a yard sell in front of our house! We cooked an amazing blueberry and Char feast for our last meal and invited France to join.

DAY 12

Today marks the start of the ride back home. We took a Twin Otter ride from Georges River to Kuujjuaq and met some guys from BC coming back from a canoe expedition between Nain, Labrador and Georges River, why would you do that!?! (http://www.frank-wolf.net/) Once we got in Kuujjuaq, Guillaume got packing because he was due on the 4pm flight, while me and Adam were booked for the day after. We then headed for lunch at the local hotel and got back to the airport to say goodbyes to Guillaume. We also tried to get on the same flight. It was fully booked and we waited until boarding to be told that 1 spot was available! So Adam and me got into a rock, paper and scissors tournament for the remaining seat. I won, but decided not to leave my buddy alone in a far west like town for the night, I stayed... So we headed back to the local hotel for some rather expensive bad beers and ate diner in the parking lot. We finally settled in for the night in a wooden area by the village.

DAY 13

We woke up pretty early this morning. It might be due to the fact that we are finally heading home! We packed our tents and went for a 4 hours long breakfast at the restaurant, taking advantage of the free internet access and week old news papers. Noon came and it was finally time to head home, so packed our bags, left the Air Inuit hangar and waited patiently at the airport.

LOOKING BACKReflecting back on that trip really makes me think that more and more, my paddling interests are shifting towards expeditions. Nunavik is filled with rivers asking to be discovered. The people up there are warm hearted and welcoming. I would definitely go back next year...

One of the problem with Nunavik is the access. The only way to get there is by airplane and it is not cheap. A ticket sells for 2000$ which is more expensive than going to Europe. Maybe the actions taken by our government to open up the North (to mining companies like most non informed people say) isn't that bad. With the development of infrastructures might also come the development of the touristic industry, which would greatly beneficiate to Nunavik. But with all that development happening fast and more people from the South travelling up to the North, one thing has to remain in our minds, RESPECT.

These people are living on the land and FROM the land so any development has to be done with immense respec of their traditions and beliefs. And, when you do get there, you have to keep in mind that they have a different culture, but if you do that you'll learn a great deal from these guys.

Fall is now at our doors here and rain should be too... In the mean time, I'm enjoying the freestyle scene a bit more!  

THANKS TO OUR PARTNER
1. First Air
2. Level Six
3. Base Camp Montréal
4. Air Inuit
5. Nunavik Park
6. FQCKEV
7. ABV Kayak